Kuat wound up sending us a unit for review. The occasion of this week’s Interbike gave us the opportunity to present a “one year later” look at Kuat’s flagship rack. We’ve also been told to expect a big announcement at this year’s Interbike from Kuat as well.

Higher off the ground, and solid.

We put our rack through the ringer. We logged more than 2,000 miles on it in less than a month. We took it across three states, up eroded 9-mile fire roads, over ungraded dirt access roads, across boggy meadows. We drove over brutal water bars at 8,000 feet elevation. We hit potholes the size of wading pools. We banged over rock gardens laced with boulders resembling cannonballs.

We whacked it, slammed it, used it and abused it. Through it all, the NV barely blinked. Bouncing over gullies and washouts, getting tossed around like an kayak in rapids, we would check in the rear view mirror to see how the bikes were doing. Based on experiences with Softride and Saris and Thule T2 racks, we expected to see some movement. Some shaking or wiggling or swaying.

Nada. The NV held solid. Kuat (the name comes from the first two initials of the co-founders last names) rode our buckin’ broncos — a Honda CR-V and Volkswagen Eurovan — all over the corral, barely even breaking a sweat.

[After we finished our testing, news came that some NVs were being recalled for an issue with the wheel cups. We checked and were not surprised to find our rack a later iteration than the suspect units. If there were a flaw in our rack, we think we would have noticed. Kuat addressed the issue some time ago but decided on the recall to be on the safe side. We wish Thule, whose T2 we own but feel has some dangerous albeit easily fixable design issues, were as proactive in its recall policy.]

The NV arrived unassembled. Assembly tools and hardware are included. It took us a little more than an hour from unpacking to final kit, which would’ve gone much faster with a ratchet wrench that fit the mounting bolts (8mm head).

The Kuat NV represents a laudable step up in platform hitch rack technology. The first thing you notice is its beefier and safer construction. The trays bolt (rather than slide) onto the hitch spar. They’re nicely molded, painted and polished. The rack weighs 8 pounds more than the T2 (45 v. 37 lbs.), but in this case the extra weight is worth it. The thing feels solid.

Angled down for rear access.

The rack uses an expansion cam to snug into the hitch, an approach we wondered about at first but came to really appreciate. After lining up the mount with the hitch hole, you slip in a steel pin and sleeve, securing the pin with a supplied cover lock. Then you turn a knurled knob on the outer end of the spar to engage the expansion mechanism. A supplied Allen wrench completes the procedure.

We originally thought the cam meant no 4-bike configuration (2 additional trays) for the NV. But Kuat has begun offering a 2-bike add-on option.

The cam provides far less slop than the conventional screw-in bolt used by other racks. With the bolt you simply can’t get the same purchase as Kuat’s innovative expansion technology. The “Kuat grip” helps explain why this rack moves so much less than others under duress.

We liked a number of other things.

The rack’s configuration puts it 2-plus inches higher off the road than the T2. This kept us from whacking the rack even on gnarly dirt ascents at speed.

The 'Trail Doc' bike stand saved our bacon.

The support arms have a broader, rubberized top hook (clamp) that more fully engages the front tire. The NV comes with attachments enabling the arms to accept 20-inch wheels. The rear-wheel straps have slip-through fasteners that can be threaded and pulled tight with just one hand (most racks have buckles requiring two hands). Overall, mounting bikes on the NV is the quickest and easiest we’ve encountered.

There’s no rear wheel cup, just the scooped surface of the tray. We wondered if this were less secure until we forgot to strap one of the bikes in. Hours (and miles) later we discovered our error, but the unstrapped wheel hadn’t budged from the middle of the tray.

The ratchet mechanism on the support arms was a bit sticky but held like a vise. It’s released with a plastic button that didn’t always release easily and seemed like the only cheap part on the rack (tip: for easier release, push the hook down as you engage the button). The arms themselves are burly and tight — again, giving the feeling of a secure, stable fit.

Our only other minor gotcha had to do with the rack position release. It’s a bit difficult to reach and tricky to engage (we kept expecting it to break in and it may very well with more use, but it was kind of balky). Other racks we’ve used, including Thule’s, make changing rack position a lot easier.

You can also lower the NV (like the T2) at an angle away from the vehicle for access to rear window and hatches. It worked like a charm on the CR-V and a Subaru; the Eurovan’s rear door is too big and low. (But aside from the Softride, that’s been true of other racks we’ve used.)

There are two particularly tasty bits on the NV. It has a built-in locking cable we really loved. The cables emerge from opposite tray ends and secure through the bikes’ rear triangles with an attached lock. They’re probably not enough to protect bikes overnight, say, or in a big unguarded parking lot. But for everyday use they’re wonderful. When not in use they slide into recessed slots out of sight. A nice touch: Magnets hold the cable ends in place so they don’t pop out and drag on the pavement.

Then there’s the built-in bike repair stand, which Kuat calls its “Trail Doc.” For our 10-day Idaho sojourn this was a life-saver. You simply close the rack (upright), extend a post with quick-release and use the seat-post clamp to secure your bike. You can do everything from simple maintenance like chain lubing or cable adjustment to wheel removal, bottom bracket overhaul, whatever. The pedals don’t catch on the rack, there’s plenty of room to work, and the bike is high enough that you don’t have to do the entire job bending over.

We wondered about a couple of things even though we encountered no problems. When the rack is not in use and placed upright (against the rear), the knurled tightening knob is rear-most exposed. We wondered how it would hold up being whacked by the bumper of another car. (MTBR.com’s reviewer broke off the knob driving off a curb.) The same thing goes for when the rack is loaded, only in that case the Trail Doc hardware is exposed. In any case, the rack comes with a lifetime warranty. We ran into a longtime Kuat customer at Galbraith Mountain who said Kuat had replaced his rack (not an NV) twice with no questions asked.

Retailing at $495, the NV is a bit pricier than other racks. But you’re getting more features, better construction, more stability, safer operation and an overall better product. When you’re out on the road or doing a trailhead repair with the NV, you won’t miss those Andrew Jacksons one bit.

Bottom line: This is the best platform rack out there. The detail work, thoughtful construction and cool features make it more than just a bike carrier. It’s like an all-around bike butler, capable of attending to your bike’s every need.

Kuat NV comparison with Thule T2

[Note: T2s have recently become unavailable from some leading outlets, prompting speculation that Thule will offer an upgraded model to be unveiled at the upcoming Interbike show in Las Vegas. We'll keep readers posted.]

• Design: Kuat’s arm hooks are broader and more curved, offering more contact with tires. Thule’s more pronounced hooks have a tighter angle, less tire contact. Kuat’s design is more stable, we feel.
• Adjustability: Thule’s trays slide along main spar, offering more options for bike-to-bike clearance. But we’ve also reported a number of catastrophic failures with the T2 due to this feature. BikeIntelligencer supports a recall of the rack to address this flaw in the T2. Kuat’s trays are fixed.
• Construction: Kuat is a significant 8 lbs. heavier. The tradeoff is greater strength and stability, particularly noticeable in the trays.
• Rack release: Kuat’s side release was a bit balky and harder to reach. Thule’s top-release lever is smoother and more accessible.
• Positioning: Kuat rides 2-plus inches higher off the ground, offering better clearance. Kuat’s overall length is six inches shorter. Both contribute to its added stability.
• Finish: Kuat’s distinctive orange and gray, in addition to paint and clear coat, give it the nod over Thule in the looks department.
• Features: Kuat offers a bike maintenance stand and built-in locking cable. (The latter feature is rumored to be included in a forthcoming update of the T2.) Thule offers locking support arms, but this feature is easily defeated by deflating the front tire.

[NOTE: With few exceptions as noted, our policy at BikeIntelligencer is to pay for what we review. In this case, Kuat offered us a rack for review that we liked so much we asked if we could buy it. Kuat asked us to donate the equivalent funds to a worthy cause of our liking, which we will split between the Evergreen Mountain Bike Alliance in Seattle and IMBA.]

Also at Otter, the Banshee Spitfire, 2010′s best new-bike name so far, is caught on video by PinkBike.

Ned Overend, the ageless one, is at Sea Otter as well.

For some time we’ve been following catastrophic failures of Thule’s T2 rack, which we think should be officially recalled. Looking for a good alternative? Here’s the Kuat NV, reviewed on MtnBikeRiders.com.

Here’s the latest, from the list:

I was driving home from Whistler last night when my T2 rack jettisoned
the rear most carrier and the Turner bike that it was holding on the Sea
to Sky Hwy!

I am grateful that no one was hurt. IT could have been very ugly.

Added Jennifer Lesher, president emeritus of Evergreen Mountain Bike Alliance in Seattle:

It happened to me in spring of 2008 – on I-5 in midday traffic. I filed a
report with the Consumer Products Safety Comission (and also posted to this
list serve).

I would encourage anyone who has experienced this issue to file a report
with the CPSC: http://www.cpsc.gov/ and click “Report an unsafe product.”
It’s an easy process and might pressure Thule to do a recall. Pass it on.

I’ve used a friend’s T2 for more than a year and recently purchased a T2 for my van. What follows is a review, consistent with all reviews we post on Bike Intelligencer, of a product by someone who actually paid for one.

Thule T2 hitch-mounted bike rack

With the advent of hydrofoam and carbon fiber bike frame technology, conventional bike racks have become a bit problematic. The traditional arm-support systems that slipped under the bike’s top tube have been rendered awkward to useless by the swoopy swervy fat or monocoque bodies of contemporary frames. Even if a frame will fit on the old style, you quickly get into scraping and scratching if you mount more than one bike per rack.

A smart and sensible alternative to the straightarm system was devised by Sportworks, then purchased and propagated by Thule. It uses a swingarm and tray design. The racheted swingarm has a padded hook that secures the front wheel; the rear wheel is strapped on with a quick-release buckle. I recently purchased a Thule T2 setup fitting a 2-inch hitch receiver. I also have a Thule roof rack using the swingarm system. The roof rack has a shorter rachet, a less pronounced angle to its hook, and in my opinion secures the front wheel better than the rear hitch rack.

The T2 is a joy to use. You just lift the bike a couple of feet off the ground — a real advantage over hoisting it onto the roof, particularly if you have a freeride or downhill honker — and position the wheels into their respective slots. You clamp down the swingarm next to the fork crown, and that keeps the bike stable so you can strap the rear wheel in with the QR buckle. It all takes seconds.

Mounting two bikes is equally snappy, and you have the added benefit that the bikes do not touch one another (sometimes you have to adjust the seat height to avoid hitting the adjacent bike’s handlebars).

There are a couple of issues with mounting the bike, though. You have to be sure to snug the swingarm hook right next to the fork crown. Intuition tells you otherwise — that you should put the swingarm hook on the front (outermost) side of the wheel, providing a longer racheting angle that by the laws of physics would, if completely stable, provide better leverage. The problem is that there’s too much play between the swingarm and tire. My Ibis Mojo actually fell off a T2 on a bumpy fireroad because of this problem (lost a good set of handlebars, but lesson learned!).

In my opinion there should be a WARNING! sticker on the rachet housing itself, advising new users to be sure to mount the swingarm correctly.

There’s another issue with the swingarm. Thule sells a lock kit for the rachet body that supposedly keeps someone from releasing the swingarm and taking the bike. It’s a complete farce. With the swingarm locked down, all a thief has to do is deflate the front tire, which releases the wheel from retention.

Get a Kryptonite New York chain, the Fahgettaboudit, for use with this rack.

Then there’s the rear wheel QR buckle issue. For some reason Thule made the strap detachable from the base end. This is convenient in the sense you don’t have to slip the tongue out of the buckle every time you mount the rear wheel. But it’s also a bit of a nuisance to have to re-mount the strap in the base with each use. It also means the strap is easily stolen or lost.

Then there’s the issue of materials. You want the rack to be light, yes. (A T2 is still a heft; a T4, which uses an extension for four bikes that I definitely would not recommend for off-roading, must be a real pig.) But you want it to be strong even more. And Thule materials just feel, well, kinda cheesy. You’re paying $360 for this thing, it ought to be better made. Sportworks fans claim to this day that its racks were stronger and more reliable than Thule’s.

Which brings us to the topic of catastrophic failure.

Because the rack rails are basically clamped on the struts with a brace, they invite loosening up and slippage over time. In the case of the above episode, they slid right off the rail.

(There’s a small phillips screw at the end of the strut that apparently is a stop, meant to keep the clamp from sliding off. It’s a joke. If the clamp is loose enough to slide, it will easily slip over the screw.)

Bolting the clamps into the strut, rather than just using friction in a clamping procedure, would prevent this kind of accident. But I have a feeling that the aluminum used by Thule would fail with bolt-through implementation.

The workaround, which Rack n Road uses, is to put a retainer carriage bolt in the T2′s pre-drilled hole for adapting the rack to a T4. If you have a T4, that option isn’t available. But it seems like a workable solution as long as the carriage bolt stays in place.

At Bike Intelligencer we feel Thule should do a redesign of the T2, addressing not only the catastrophic failure but the other issues we’ve raised. In the meantime, a recall would seem to be in order. Far beyond the pain and expense of losing a high-end bike, too many liability issues surface with this kind of rack failure.

We’ll try to keep you posted.

For a promising alternative, check out Kuat’s new NV rack, scheduled for release Oct. 20. It comes at a higher price point ($495) but has built-in cables for locking the bike as well as, check it out, a built-in bike repair stand! Here’s video.

Interbike Video: Kuat Rack’s ‘NV’ from Bike Magazine on Vimeo.